Cabochon vs. Faceted Gemstones

Gemstones are one of the most integral elements of jewellery design, and the cut is often as impactful as the gemstone itself. The two fundamental styles of gemstone cutting are cabochon and faceted, hugely different to one another in their approaches.

Whether you’re a jewellery designer expanding your repertoire or brand new to the world of jewellery, understanding the aesthetic, structural and historic differences between cabochon and faceted gemstones can help you to make more informed choices. For this information in video form, check out our Managing Director Kim on YouTube.

What is a Cabochon Gemstone?

A selection of non-precious gemstones and crystals sporting different cabochon shapes.

A cabochon, often referred to as a ‘cab,’ is a gemstone with a smooth, domed surface and a flat back. Unlike faceted gemstones, cabochons are not cut with multiple facets to reflect the light. Instead, the polished exterior celebrates the gemstone’s natural colour and true optical qualities.

Cabochons come in a variety of shapes and sizes, the most popular being round and oval. Other shapes such as the teardrop, pear, square, triangle and even freeform designs are also commonplace.

One of the rarest types of cabochon, on the other hand, is the sugarloaf cabochon; conical in shape with four sides alike to a pyramid. This cut is particularly striking because it lends an unusual three-dimensional quality to a piece of jewellery.

Cabochon cutting is ideal for gemstones that exhibit unique visual properties or are not naturally transparent enough to benefit from faceting. These opaque or translucent gemstones are largely semi-precious. Common cabochon gemstones include:

- Turquoise

- Onyx

- Lapis lazuli

- Coral

- Malachite

- Larimar

- Howlite

- Opal

How Are Cabochon Stones Cut?

A lapidary cutting a gemstone at a moving diamond lathe in a jewellery workshop.

Although the final impression of a cabochon cut is effortlessly simple, the process of cutting one involves several steps…

1. Slab cutting: The gemstone is cut from a larger piece using a slab saw.

2. Stencilling: The desired shape is drawn onto the stone using a template.

3. Trimming: A diamond blade or trim saw is used to cut around the stencil.

4. Shaping and polishing: The stone is ‘dopped’ onto a stick to hold it securely in place, then sanded and polished using a soft polishing wheel to create a lustrous, domed finish.

What is a Faceted Gemstone?

A jeweller setting faceted fancy-cut citrine, amethyst and blue topaz into a silver drop earring.

Faceted gemstones are cut with multiple flat surfaces (facets), carefully designed to reflect light and enhance the brilliance of the stone. This cutting style is particularly suited to transparent and translucent gemstones because it maximises their sparkle and internal ‘fire’ (rainbow-like flashes of colour that appear when light is refracted and dispersed through the facets.)

There are myriad different types of faceted gemstone cut, each with their own light-reactive behaviours. Popular cuts include the cushion, emerald, oval, princess and rose cut – but by far the most common faceting style is the iconic brilliant-cut. Defined by a round shape, a flat top (table) and pointed bottom (pavilion) and 57-58 symmetrical facets, the brilliant-cut is a precise design, calculated for optimal light refraction to achieving maximal sparkle.

Faceted cuts are generally chosen for their ability to reflect light, making them ideal for transparent gemstones that allow light to enter and leave. Some of the most commonly faceted gemstones include:

- Diamond

- Ruby

- Sapphire

- Emerald

- Topaz

- Amethyst

- Citrine

- Quartz

How Are Faceted Stones Cut?

An emerald-cut pale green sapphire set into a gold pendant with a small cluster of round emeralds beneath the chain connector.

Though once faceted painstakingly by hand, today faceted gemstones are precisely cut and polished using specialised faceting machines with spinning. The process includes:

Dopping: As touched on before, the rough gemstone is first mounted on a dop stick to secure it in place.
Faceting: The top of the gemstone is cut and polished.
Faceting the pavilion: The underside of the gemstone is shaped to maximise light reflection, with its smallest facet – its culet – forming the bottom-most tip.
Final polishing: The gemstone is polished to enhance its brilliance.

Cabochon or Faceted: Which Should you Choose?

A turquoise cabochon in a silver pendant setting, surrounded by rough turquoise.

As a jewellery designer there are a number of factors you should take into consideration before picking between cabochon or faceted…

Aesthetic Considerations

Cabochons: Offer a smooth, understated finish that emphasises colour. They’re often used in vintage, bohemian, and artistic jewellery styles

Faceted gemstones: Provide sparkle and brilliance, making them ideal for fine jewellery and special occasion pieces.

Wearability and Versatility

Cabochons: Are generally more durable due to their lack of edges and facets. They work well in casual and everyday jewellery.

Faceted gemstones: Are often associated with luxury and formal jewellery. Their edges can be leave them more prone to chipping, requiring careful setting, handling and day-to-day care.

Cost and Accessibility

Cabochons: Are usually more affordable than faceted gemstones, not only on account of the types of gemstone that tend to be chosen for cabochon cutting, but because the cutting process is simpler, requiring less labour and material removal. Cabochons are an opportunity for jewellery designers to embrace larger gemstone sizes at a lower cost.

Faceted gemstones: Tend to cost more than cabochons due to the labour-intensive cutting process; but subsequently offer a high-end finish.

Jewellery Design Trends

In recent years we’ve seen a growing trend towards cabochon gemstones. Many designers find that the high sparkle of faceted gemstones can appear too dressy or formal, whilst cabochons offer a softer and more approachable look that’s easier to wear every day. Some designers combine both faceting styles in their collections, pairing the smooth allure of cabochons with the brilliance of faceted stones to create dynamic and interesting designs.

Practical Considerations for Jewellery Designers

A cabochon onyx in a silver pendant setting, sat atop a lump of black onyx.

If you’re incorporating gemstones into your jewellery designs, here are our top tips for ensuring value and quality…

Source your stones wisely: Some suppliers sell gemstones by carat weight, whilst others sell by quantity. Be sure to clarify how your gemstones are priced.

Cutting capabilities: Not all manufacturers can cut every type of stone. For example, some manufacturers specialise in cabochons but outsource faceted stone cutting to specialists.

Custom sizing: If you require specific gemstone sizes or shapes for your designs, ensure your supplier can accommodate your request. Our highly experienced lapidary team are skilled in the arts of stone-cutting and inlay.

Cabochon vs. Faceted: Finding the Right Gemstone for Your Collection

Loose round brilliant-cut sapphires, potentially heat-treated for their vibrant blue hue.

Both cabochon and faceted gemstones have their place in jewellery design, and the choice between the two depends on personal preference, style, function and budget. If you remain unsure of which type of gemstone to use, experimenting with samples is a great way to explore the finish of each option. Getting hands-on with a few different cuts, colours and styles is not only an opportunity for you to feel instinctively which best aligns with your creative vision; you could even poll your customers.

We take great pride in our exceptional customer service and the time we take to understand our clients’ ideas. To learn more about what it means to collaborate with us on jewellery that resonates with your audience, click here or get in touch.